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The Yosemite National Park is attempting to make its Covid-era rule in which climbers are required to have a permit to spend the night on a big wall permanent—and predictably, climbers aren’t happy about it. We spoke to two of the most active big wall climbers in Yosemite in recent years about the current state of affairs in the Valley: Gena Wood is a former climbing ranger and a veteran of more than 20 ascents of El Cap. And Lance Colley has also worked for the park service, and has completed 29 ascents of El Cap in the past three years.
But first, the hosts catch up after two very different climbing experiences, and discuss the serial chipper on the loose in Utah and determine just who, or what, is to blame.
Finally, “Jefe” (Jeff Jackson) returns to the final bit with some Hawaiian-inflected jams.
Show Notes
Submit your comment on big-wall permits by November!
Follow Lance Colley on Instagram
Watch the Park Service’s virtual town hall explaining their rationale for the permit
James Hornibrook’s Change petition against the permits
Read up on Booz Allen Hamilton in the NYT and again in the NYT.
Evening Sends article on chipping.
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One response to “RunOut #89: Ethics, Rules, Crowds, Permits”
Thank you for a great episode.
I disagree with the statement that climbers are no different from other types of park users. Unlike other users, big wall climbers do not use resources created by the park service, such as trails and campgrounds. Any routes and camp sites on the big walls have been created by the climbers themselves.
In today’s world there are enough mechanisms for changing climber’s mindsets, so that self-regulation can be achieved. If enough of top gun pros, the likes of Alex, and Tony, and Emily speak up (and follow the best Leave-No-Trace practices themselves), the climbing community will listen. Littering can be greatly reduced by climbers themselves, and if that is done the overcrowding will not be a problem for anyone, other than climbers themselves – and it’s and individual decision whether to get on an overcrowded popular route.
The only people among park officials who can help create effective mitigation for the issues of littering and overcrowding are the climbing rangers. Jointly with the climbing community. Not the government bureaucrats.