Tag: ethics

  • RunOut #89: Ethics, Rules, Crowds, Permits

    RunOut #89: Ethics, Rules, Crowds, Permits

    The Yosemite National Park is attempting to make its Covid-era rule in which climbers are required to have a permit to spend the night on a big wall permanent—and predictably, climbers aren’t happy about it. We spoke to two of the most active big wall climbers in Yosemite in recent years about the current state of affairs in the Valley: Gena Wood is a former climbing ranger and a veteran of more than 20 ascents of El Cap. And Lance Colley has also worked for the park service, and has completed 29 ascents of El Cap in the past three years.

    But first, the hosts catch up after two very different climbing experiences, and discuss the serial chipper on the loose in Utah and determine just who, or what, is to blame.

    Finally, “Jefe” (Jeff Jackson) returns to the final bit with some Hawaiian-inflected jams.

    Show Notes

    Submit your comment on big-wall permits by November!

    Follow Lance Colley on Instagram

    Follow Gena Wood on Instagram

    Watch the Park Service’s virtual town hall explaining their rationale for the permit

    James Hornibrook’s Change petition against the permits

    Read up on Booz Allen Hamilton in the NYT and again in the NYT.

    Evening Sends article on chipping.

    Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

    Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

  • RunOut #86: Climbing is in Seb Bouin’s DNA

    RunOut #86: Climbing is in Seb Bouin’s DNA

    Our guest today is Seb Bouin, one of the best rock climbers on Earth and the author of DNA, one of three 5.15d rock climbs established thus far. We talk to Seb about grades, how he measures success, the benefits of climbing outdoors vs. training indoors, and where the future of rock climbing is heading next.

    But first, we take a somber look at a recent accident on Half Dome, in which a young woman fell 80 feet and badly injured herself. In the aftermath of this terrible accident, calls are sounding to add bolts to one of Half Dome’s more historic climbs. We consider the contours of the debate and attempt to arrive at some ideas for how to proceed in the wake of an accident.

    Today’s final bit comes from the band Rebelle, a Quebec-based band whose drummer, Joey Kane, is a sport climber who first discovered climbing during the pandemic and has been hooked ever since. This is their new song, Head on Fire.

    Show Notes

    Seb Bouin on Instagram: DNA (9c), Iron Curtain (9a+/b), Change (9b+), Nordic Marathon.

    Who Cares about the World’s Hardest Route on Evening Sends.

    80-foot Slab Fall Leaves Yosemite Climber Critically Injured

    Student hit with $1.2m medical bill after falling in Yosemite

    Donate to Anna’s Recovery

    Rebelle on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, Spotify

    Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

    Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

  • RunOut #26: More is More with Bill Ramsey

    RunOut #26: More is More with Bill Ramsey

    Rumor has it, Randy Leavitt first spotted Clark Mountain from an airplane. To be more specific, he saw an impressively long shadow being cast by a cliff, and surmised that there be overhanging rock yonder way.

    Worth exploring? Hell yeah.

    Sure enough, the ever-prolific Leavitt would go on to develop the climbing on Clark Mountain, which is situated at the California-Nevada border, high over the desolate Mojave Preserve. It’s a haul just to get the parking lot. A grueling 90-minute hike ensues to reach the goods up on the so-called Third Tier. But the reward is arguably the most impressive piece of limestone in North America, a bone-white shield, tilted 50 degrees overhanging and soaring impossibly twoard the sky.

    The most famous route here is Chris Sharma’s Jumbo Love, America’s first 5.15b and one of North America’s hardest climbs. To its left is its little sibling, Jumbo Pumping Hate, a 5.14a that Leavitt had originally completed as a four-pitch route. Few could believe the photographs of Leavitt on this route.

    “That’s in America? Holy shit!”

    One of those climbers was Bill Ramsey, who saw those photos of Jumbo Pumping Hate, and put that climb on his bucket list.

    Fast forward a couple decades to this past spring, when Bill, 11 days after turning 59 years old, clipped the chains on Jumbo Pumping Hate with his own successful ascent. Days later, he was in the OR to get hip surgery. Routine maintenance for 59-year-old bone crushers.

    Ramsey is philosophy professor, longtime climber, and prolific route developer. He’s timeless in all the right ways. Conversation with him never gets old—and he never seems to get old. One of the most impressive stats about him is that he has climbed 25 of his 26 5.14s after he turned 40.

    This is Andrew Bisharat, and I’m here with Chris Kalous and we thought Ramsey’s recent send would be a good excuse to check in with our favorite climbing philosopher, this Socrates of Send.

    But first I wanted to share a passage Ramsey wrote for my website, Evening Sends. He wrote a piece for the Day I Sent series about doing Golden, a 5.14b in Utah. You should check it out because, of all the Day I Sent stories I’ve run on my site, this was the only one that needed not a single edit. It came in perfect. It describes a wonderful moment in climbing that’s available to all of us—a moment that Ramsey himself most certainly experienced that day recently up on Clark Mountain.

    It goes.

    “All extended athletic careers are punctuated by moments that Kant, and later Gumbrecht, characterized as instances of the “sublime.” They are the rarest of times when luck, skill, and some degree of gumption combine to create what is best described as a fleeting but undeniable moment of grace. Some professional athletes can conjure several of these in their career, and that’s why they are superstars. But even for us rank amateurs, there are the rare instances when it all clicks and body and mind enter a state of communion that transcends our normal mediocrity.”