Tag: Chipping

  • RunOut 124: How Jesse Grupper is getting Psyched and Ready for the next Olympics

    RunOut 124: How Jesse Grupper is getting Psyched and Ready for the next Olympics

    Last fall, Jesse Grupper took home the gold medal at the Pan Am games, securing his spot on Team USA for the Paris Olympics in 2024. Now just a few months out from the Games, we caught up with Jesse to hear about how he is preparing and getting psyched to represent our country in lead and bouldering at the Olympics—all while balancing life as a mechanical engineer pushing the limits of soft robotics to improve people’s lives.

    But first, yr sticky, sweet podcast hosts get into a debate about glue and when it’s appropriate to use it to fix boulder problems that break. This discussion comes after one of Colorado’s oldest and most historic boulder problems broke, and locals put the question to the community for a vote.

    Buster Jesik, IFMGA / AMGA mountain guide, lays down a sick drum track for today’s final bit.

    Show Notes

    Jesse Grupper Wins PanAM

    Watch Jesse flash Livin’ Astro

    Follow Jesse Grupper on Instagram

    Mental Standard Has Broken — Instagram

    Mental Standard — Mountain Project

    Mountain Project Thread

    Follow Buster Jesik on Instagram, Youtube, or contact him for guiding buster@coloradomountainschool.com

    Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

    Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

  • RunOut #89: Ethics, Rules, Crowds, Permits

    RunOut #89: Ethics, Rules, Crowds, Permits

    The Yosemite National Park is attempting to make its Covid-era rule in which climbers are required to have a permit to spend the night on a big wall permanent—and predictably, climbers aren’t happy about it. We spoke to two of the most active big wall climbers in Yosemite in recent years about the current state of affairs in the Valley: Gena Wood is a former climbing ranger and a veteran of more than 20 ascents of El Cap. And Lance Colley has also worked for the park service, and has completed 29 ascents of El Cap in the past three years.

    But first, the hosts catch up after two very different climbing experiences, and discuss the serial chipper on the loose in Utah and determine just who, or what, is to blame.

    Finally, “Jefe” (Jeff Jackson) returns to the final bit with some Hawaiian-inflected jams.

    Show Notes

    Submit your comment on big-wall permits by November!

    Follow Lance Colley on Instagram

    Follow Gena Wood on Instagram

    Watch the Park Service’s virtual town hall explaining their rationale for the permit

    James Hornibrook’s Change petition against the permits

    Read up on Booz Allen Hamilton in the NYT and again in the NYT.

    Evening Sends article on chipping.

    Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

    Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

  • RunOut #27: Climbers Vs. The Man

    RunOut #27: Climbers Vs. The Man

    Three major climbing areas are in the climbing news right now due to access issues. The common thread between these areas is how the proverbial Man is coming down on us, imposing his late-stage tyranny on our freewheeling spirits.

    The BLM is making noises about moving forward with plans that would help cement popular vote loser Donald Trump’s illegal reduction of Bear’s Ears, which has the Access Fund sounding the alarm.

    The park service that manages the Grampians in Australia has effectively shut down more than half of the climbing, justifying their actions with a nefarious propaganda war that has blamed climbers for things they did not do.

    And a gang of 18 climbers chopped a bunch of routes in Ten Sleep to make a stupid point. These actions ultimately, and predictably, got new route development shut down in Ten Sleep for the foreseeable future.

    This is Andrew Bisharat. In this episode, Chris Kalous and I talk about some of these issues and try to parse out what it means for climbing going forward.

    Before unleashing this episode, I think it’s probably wise and prudent to state my opinion about chipping—which I believe that Chris also shares—before we get slandered for being chipping apologists.

    To be totally clear, we do not support chipping at all, especially the kind of chipping that Louie Anderson appears to have been doing in Ten Sleep. The photos I’ve seen of his chipped holds are totally fucked. They’re unacceptable and out of line with any normal climbing ethic anywhere else in the world that I’ve seen.

    Louie’s brand of chipping is the archetype most climbers imagine when they rail against chipped holds—ugly dripped jugs in otherwise blank rock to make routes easier than they would be otherwise. But this brand of chipping is also the exception. Many climbing areas have chipped holds, but very few have chipped holds like this.

    In this episode, Chris and I speak about chipping with a bit nuance that we realized later might get lost on some of our audience. To be clear, the kind of chipping that we’re referencing is the kind that actually exists on a grey, nuanced ethical spectrum and is only acceptable insofar as most climbers will happily climb these chipped routes and rave about them without even realizing that they are indeed grabbing modified holds.

    The case of Louie Anderson is clear cut. He is a terrible route developer making horrible routes, and his brand of chipping shouldn’t be tolerated anywhere.

    But if you find yourself taking a hardline stance on chipping, you should also realize that it’s complicated. I can almost guarantee you many of the routes that you love have chipped holds, modified holds, holds that have been glued on, or holds that have been altered or removed, either to bring routes down the developer’s level, or more commonly to make routes harder than they would’ve been otherwise.

    With that said, here’s our latest episode. Thanks for all the great feedback. And we appreciate you leaving reviews of the show on iTunes or wherever.

  • RunOut #26: More is More with Bill Ramsey

    RunOut #26: More is More with Bill Ramsey

    Rumor has it, Randy Leavitt first spotted Clark Mountain from an airplane. To be more specific, he saw an impressively long shadow being cast by a cliff, and surmised that there be overhanging rock yonder way.

    Worth exploring? Hell yeah.

    Sure enough, the ever-prolific Leavitt would go on to develop the climbing on Clark Mountain, which is situated at the California-Nevada border, high over the desolate Mojave Preserve. It’s a haul just to get the parking lot. A grueling 90-minute hike ensues to reach the goods up on the so-called Third Tier. But the reward is arguably the most impressive piece of limestone in North America, a bone-white shield, tilted 50 degrees overhanging and soaring impossibly twoard the sky.

    The most famous route here is Chris Sharma’s Jumbo Love, America’s first 5.15b and one of North America’s hardest climbs. To its left is its little sibling, Jumbo Pumping Hate, a 5.14a that Leavitt had originally completed as a four-pitch route. Few could believe the photographs of Leavitt on this route.

    “That’s in America? Holy shit!”

    One of those climbers was Bill Ramsey, who saw those photos of Jumbo Pumping Hate, and put that climb on his bucket list.

    Fast forward a couple decades to this past spring, when Bill, 11 days after turning 59 years old, clipped the chains on Jumbo Pumping Hate with his own successful ascent. Days later, he was in the OR to get hip surgery. Routine maintenance for 59-year-old bone crushers.

    Ramsey is philosophy professor, longtime climber, and prolific route developer. He’s timeless in all the right ways. Conversation with him never gets old—and he never seems to get old. One of the most impressive stats about him is that he has climbed 25 of his 26 5.14s after he turned 40.

    This is Andrew Bisharat, and I’m here with Chris Kalous and we thought Ramsey’s recent send would be a good excuse to check in with our favorite climbing philosopher, this Socrates of Send.

    But first I wanted to share a passage Ramsey wrote for my website, Evening Sends. He wrote a piece for the Day I Sent series about doing Golden, a 5.14b in Utah. You should check it out because, of all the Day I Sent stories I’ve run on my site, this was the only one that needed not a single edit. It came in perfect. It describes a wonderful moment in climbing that’s available to all of us—a moment that Ramsey himself most certainly experienced that day recently up on Clark Mountain.

    It goes.

    “All extended athletic careers are punctuated by moments that Kant, and later Gumbrecht, characterized as instances of the “sublime.” They are the rarest of times when luck, skill, and some degree of gumption combine to create what is best described as a fleeting but undeniable moment of grace. Some professional athletes can conjure several of these in their career, and that’s why they are superstars. But even for us rank amateurs, there are the rare instances when it all clicks and body and mind enter a state of communion that transcends our normal mediocrity.”

  • RunOut #18: Old Skool Chipping Dust-up.

    RunOut #18: Old Skool Chipping Dust-up.

    In the world of Rock Climbing, few actions are more socially taboo than manufacturing holds – except, of course, wearing man-pris.

    And yet, if you climb limestone sport routes, your chubby digits have likely dry-fired off chipped, glued, or comfortized holds more times than you realize or are willing to admit.

    Yes, chipping is sport climbing’s dirty open secret. Really, more like privileged information or flat out denial.

    Yet, when does it go too far? Becoming wholesale manufacturing paraded in front of us like a gaudy Mardis Gras float of ego and bad judgement?

    A recent open letter to the climbing community was published by local developers from  Tensleep, Wyoming decrying and pulling the veil off routes, cliffs, and whole areas of completely and blatantly manufactured outdoor climbs. The authors’ collective outrage prompted this manifesto against the offending developers and asked others to sign on in protest. The fury of the internet ensued.

    An open letter in the digital age felt old skool, and since we are, too, Andrew and I felt compelled to discuss the grey area in the subject of chipping. We asked questions you should be asking yourself if you sport climb outdoors: is chipping ever ok? Does climbing on chipped holds tacitly condone the practice? And should there be a background check to buy a Hilti or Bosch?

    I’m Chris Kalous with Andrew Bisharat, and you are listening to the RunOut.

    Original Letter Post at Facebook

    The Letter thread at Mountain Project

    The Letter thread at Supertopo