RunOut #47 – The Best Story in Climbing

runout podcast

After a long summer re-building the camper of his dreams, Chris Kalous departs on a strange and savage journey into the heart of Trump country, while Andrew Bisharat trembles under the banner of Q-Anon hashtag sightings close to home. Meanwhile, for most climbers in South Dakota, it’s business as usual—though are their crags getting the credit they deserve?

Next, over a pot of boiled beef parts, the hosts sit down with Jordan Cannon and Mark Hudon and discuss their unlikely partnership and the story of their new film, “Free as Can Be,” documenting Hudon’s bid to free climb the Free Rider decades after he and Max Jones first came up with this wild, audacious goal.

And for the Final Bit: J-Star returns and describes spinning of orbit, and colliding with gravity.

Become a 5.14 RopeGun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast.

Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Social Media

RunOut Facebook: http://facebook.com/runoutpodcast

Andrew Bisharat: Twitter @eveningsends Instagram @andrewbisharat Evening Sends

Chris Kalous: Twitter: @enormocast Instagram @enormocast Enormocast

Show Notes / Links

Mark Hudon sent “Shiboomi” (5.13a) in Rifle in the last week of September!

“Free as Can Be” – Official Trailer: https://vimeo.com/438735532

Jordan Cannon Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/cannonjtc/

EnormoCamper: https://www.instagram.com/p/CEUDPcBAw5U/

”Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint Techniques for Climbing Success”


8 responses to “RunOut #47 – The Best Story in Climbing”

  1. Is there a way to watch free as can be right now? For free or purchase it… a preliminary googling didn’t turn up any info.

    • Unfortunately not. The film is being sent to film fests and to be accepted it can’t be online, but I imagine that it’ll be back online soon-ish Otherwise, we’ll share info next time I hear it making an appearance at a film fest.

  2. The people living in Parachute don’t care there is a nuclear fracking site right across the street: Rulison.

  3. There’s a question raised about 21 minutes in concerning the detail of how Jardine climbed The Phoenix. Could this possibly owe its origin to the fact that he initially climbed the route from a nailed-in hanging belay just before the rightward traverse, having decided that the line below that position didn’t look climbable – but then had second thoughts and was subsequently able to re-climb it from a lower belay which then became the normal starting point? It’s the sort of thing that could easily get misreported or misunderstood and end up somewhat different from what actually happened.

    • Totally. Also, the yoyo-ing thing was in full swing at the time, so it could have been yo-yoed, which is to say that he lowered after falling but climbed to his high point on a top-rope before continuing. Its hard to say, but certainly our current standard of Redpoint was unlikely.

      • Indeed. I remember that this was the time when the term ‘hangdogging’ was coined – which, despite its very negative interpretation today, is pretty much synonymous with what we now understand as ‘redpointing’; ie hanging on gear, on lead, to work out the moves – and then sending, on lead, placing the gear. [Headpointing being when the rehearsal is on toprope – because the gear is too crap/non existent to hang off.] Mark certainly gives the impression here that he believes that Jardine climbed the route in what would now be regarded as a valid redpoint style; but that’s clearly just his opinion, and he comes across as a very generous guy.

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