Tag: Training

  • RunOut 123: How NFL Lineman Wes Schweitzer Uses Rock Climbing to Move Better and Get Stronger

    RunOut 123: How NFL Lineman Wes Schweitzer Uses Rock Climbing to Move Better and Get Stronger

    Our guest today is #71 for the New York Jets: Wes Schweitzer, an offensive guard whose injuries sent him down a curious path of recovery: rock climbing. Since discovering the sport, Wes has fallen in love with climbing and uses it as a tool to improve his performance on and off the field. At 6’4” 330-pounds, Wes is considered one of the strongest lineman in the game, putting up 765-pound deadlifts well over twice his body weight. As a true professional athlete, Wes delivers some fascinating insights into how both football and climbing training mentalities could benefit from each other.

    But first, yr favorite climbing podcasters play a game of Fuck, Marry, Kill with climbing gear.

    Our final bit is a track from Harris Freif called “Tortillas and Peanut Butter” off his album Guitar 2.

    Show Notes

    Follow Wes Schweitzer on Instagram and Twitter

    “Meet the 330-pound NFL Lineman Addicted to Rock Climbing”

    Check out Harris Freif on Spotify

    Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

    Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

  • RunOut #92: Libby Sauter and the Myth of Having it All

    RunOut #92: Libby Sauter and the Myth of Having it All

    We’ve got a double-header today with two amazing guests.

    Our first guest is Scott Johnston, a coach, trainer, and co-author of Training for the New Alpinism, with over 200,000 copies sold. Scott recently left his perch at Uphill Athlete to continue his work at Evoke Endurance. We talk to Scott about a healthier approach to training for comprehensive fitness, whether on the rock or in the big mountains.

    Next, we speak to Libby Sauter, a family nurse practitioner and trad climber who holds the women’s speed record on the Nose. She set that record in 2014 with Mayan Smith Gobat, clocking a time of 4:43. Libby took a big step back from speed climbing after seeing her dear friend Quinn Brett break her back while trying to beat her record. In the past few years, she’s been trying to start a family with her partner, but has suffered tragic loss many times over through multiple miscarriages. Libby shares the struggle of this journey honestly and openly, with the goal of influencing other female climbers and athletes to think about what it means to have it all.

    Our final bit today is some Buddy Spray for friend of the pod Wendy Williams, who, at age 48, just climbed the hardest route of her life.

    Show Notes

    Connect with Scott Johnston at Evoke Endurance and follow him and his team on Instagram.

    Training for the New Alpinism

    Libby Sauter on Instagram.

    Video: Libby and Mayan break the Nose speed record.

    Free (Donation-based) pregnancy and infant loss counseling

    Fertility Doctor YouTube

    The Turnaway Study: Cost of being denied abortions

    Wendy Williams: At 48, I tried everything. Here’s What Helped Me (Finally) Send.

    Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

    Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

  • RunOut #77: Greasy and the Beast

    RunOut #77: Greasy and the Beast

    Ned Feehally is one of the few climbers ever to have flashed V14 (8B+). He is also one of the founders of Beastmaker, a U.K. climbing company that ushered in an era of fine wood hangboards that you just don’t mind grabbing cause they’re just so cushy. His new book is ”Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber,” and is a comprehensive look at training techniques that anyone can use. We discuss training philosophy with Ned, the rise of guru-dom in the training world and the why training has gotten too complicated for its own good.

    But first, we attempt to make this podcast a true-crime pod by speculating on whodunnit with regards to the recent vandalism of the Big Bend boulders outside of Moab, Utah. Moab uber-local Lisa Hathaway gives us a first-hand report on GreaseGate as we probe the scene of the crime.

    Last but never least, Chris Parker returns to the Final Bit with a new song called Passing Through about ultra-runner Joe Grant’s Colorado feats of glory. The song will officially debut in vinyl alongside an “immersive experience” at the Five Point Film festival this spring.

    Show Notes

    Ned Feehally on Instagram.

    “Beastmaking” is available from Vertebrate Publishing and Amazon.

    News: Ned Feehally and Shauna Coxsey are coming to Salt Lake City for a presentation and book signing on March 20. Get your tickets here.

    Steph Davis’ Instagram post about Greasegate.

    Anyone with information about Greasegate can call the BLM tip line at 435-259-2131. Callers may remain anonymous.

    Chris Parker Music

    Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

    Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

  • RunOut #26: More is More with Bill Ramsey

    RunOut #26: More is More with Bill Ramsey

    Rumor has it, Randy Leavitt first spotted Clark Mountain from an airplane. To be more specific, he saw an impressively long shadow being cast by a cliff, and surmised that there be overhanging rock yonder way.

    Worth exploring? Hell yeah.

    Sure enough, the ever-prolific Leavitt would go on to develop the climbing on Clark Mountain, which is situated at the California-Nevada border, high over the desolate Mojave Preserve. It’s a haul just to get the parking lot. A grueling 90-minute hike ensues to reach the goods up on the so-called Third Tier. But the reward is arguably the most impressive piece of limestone in North America, a bone-white shield, tilted 50 degrees overhanging and soaring impossibly twoard the sky.

    The most famous route here is Chris Sharma’s Jumbo Love, America’s first 5.15b and one of North America’s hardest climbs. To its left is its little sibling, Jumbo Pumping Hate, a 5.14a that Leavitt had originally completed as a four-pitch route. Few could believe the photographs of Leavitt on this route.

    “That’s in America? Holy shit!”

    One of those climbers was Bill Ramsey, who saw those photos of Jumbo Pumping Hate, and put that climb on his bucket list.

    Fast forward a couple decades to this past spring, when Bill, 11 days after turning 59 years old, clipped the chains on Jumbo Pumping Hate with his own successful ascent. Days later, he was in the OR to get hip surgery. Routine maintenance for 59-year-old bone crushers.

    Ramsey is philosophy professor, longtime climber, and prolific route developer. He’s timeless in all the right ways. Conversation with him never gets old—and he never seems to get old. One of the most impressive stats about him is that he has climbed 25 of his 26 5.14s after he turned 40.

    This is Andrew Bisharat, and I’m here with Chris Kalous and we thought Ramsey’s recent send would be a good excuse to check in with our favorite climbing philosopher, this Socrates of Send.

    But first I wanted to share a passage Ramsey wrote for my website, Evening Sends. He wrote a piece for the Day I Sent series about doing Golden, a 5.14b in Utah. You should check it out because, of all the Day I Sent stories I’ve run on my site, this was the only one that needed not a single edit. It came in perfect. It describes a wonderful moment in climbing that’s available to all of us—a moment that Ramsey himself most certainly experienced that day recently up on Clark Mountain.

    It goes.

    “All extended athletic careers are punctuated by moments that Kant, and later Gumbrecht, characterized as instances of the “sublime.” They are the rarest of times when luck, skill, and some degree of gumption combine to create what is best described as a fleeting but undeniable moment of grace. Some professional athletes can conjure several of these in their career, and that’s why they are superstars. But even for us rank amateurs, there are the rare instances when it all clicks and body and mind enter a state of communion that transcends our normal mediocrity.”

  • Runout #16: Training Trends With Dan Mirsky

    Runout #16: Training Trends With Dan Mirsky

    Training is everywhere … actual climbing, less so.

    Are climbers training to get better at training, or are they training to get better at climbing? It’s hard to tell just based on what you see on social media. That’s why we decided to bring in an expert, someone who could to help us decipher what the latest trends in training for climbing, and maybe learn about what’s legit and what’s a waste of time.

    Joining us today is Dan Mirsky, a professional trainer and a perpetually psyched rock climber. He is one of the few guys I know who literally warms up on 5.14.

    This is The RunOut Podcast. Thanks for turning in. I’m Andrew Bisharat, and I’m here as always with my co-host Chris Kalous. In this episode, we ended up not covering as much territory as I would’ve liked. In fact, once the mics went off, we actually started getting into some more interesting stuff, such as why doing routes in the gym is a complete waste of time, even if you’re interested in training endurance. I think we’ll probably have to get Dan on again so we can to dive into some of these other training topics.

    If there’s anything you’re interested in hearing discussed, feel free to email us.

    On that note, since we’ve been doing these episodes now for a few months, I think we’re starting to find our groove. We really haven’t done much in the way of promoting the podcast, so it’s been especially surprising and meaningful to see so much great feedback already. So, thank you for that. It means a lot. Obviously any reviews on iTunes help, and just sharing the episodes with your friends is also really appreciated.

    Anyway, let’s get to it. Here we are with Dan Mirsky.