Tag: Ice Climbing

  • RunOut #144: Life After Competition: Hannah Schubert and Eating Disorders in Climbing

    RunOut #144: Life After Competition: Hannah Schubert and Eating Disorders in Climbing

    Hannah Schubert is an Austrian climber who has podiumed at the World Cup and the World Championships. Now retired from professional competition, Hannah was recently profiled in Der Spiegel, one of Germanys’ largest publications, where she opened up about her struggles with eating disorders during the height of her competitive career.

    Our conversation traces Hannah’s career, from climbing alongside her brother Jakob, to the hyper competitive world of Austrian climbing, and what it meant to stand on a World Cup podium. We look at how eating disorders can spread through taking silent cues, comparing yourself to others, and the comments made by coaches. We talk about how easy eating disorders are to hide from others, making it hard to talk about and address. And we hear about the ultimate breaking point for Hannah, and her years long recovery back to mental and physical health.

    But first, Chris has a confession to make to Andrew … and needless to say, Andrew is NOT happy about it.

    Our final bit is some classic Winona shit.

    Show Notes 

    Follow Hannah Schubert on Instagram

    Profile in Der Spiegel

    Guest Blog by Hannah Schubert: Why I Think Vulnerability Matters

    Young Women with Anorexia Nervosa Speak Out about Hospital Experiences

    Michigan Ice Festival

    Winona Ice Festival

    Matthew Drazkowski rant

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  • RunOut #142: Jason Kehl and the Evolution of Bouldering

    RunOut #142: Jason Kehl and the Evolution of Bouldering

    Jason Kehl is a hold shaper, iconclast, and highball bouldering legend, perhaps best known for his first ascent of Evilution in the Buttermilks. Today, he lives in El Paso, Texas, where he continues to establish first ascents all over Hueco Tanks. He is also continue to work with So Ill to create climbing holds. Our conversation traces the evolution of bouldering as a sport for misfits and outcasts to the conformist scene of today.

    But first, we respond to the tragic news of an ice-climbing death by asking some tough and perhaps irreconcilable questions about being a new climber, in which ambition can exceed experience, and how social media dynamics can make all of this worse.

    Last, a little amuse bouche of one of our favorite climbing songwriters, Chris Parker, who’ll be joining us on stage in Boulder for our upcoming LIVE event on February 20.

    Show Notes

    Follow Jason Kehl on Instagram

    Jason Kehl’s World of Illusions – Episode 8 – Hueco’s Web

    Hueco Rehab – “Real Climbing Episode 5″

    Check out the Connect Board from So Ill

    Check out the latest holds from So Ill 

    Ice Climber Dies in the Canadian Rockies — Gripped

    Chris Parker on Instagram and Spotify

  • RunOut #17: EPIC Michigan Ice Fest

    RunOut #17: EPIC Michigan Ice Fest

    Here are some fun facts about Michigan that you may not know. It is home to the world’s largest limestone quarry, the largest deposit of native copper, the largest cement plant, the largest crucifix, the largest bronze horse sculpture, the largest manufacturer of magic supplies, and the largest ice climbing festival in the world.

    OK, that last one might not technically be true. But the Michigan Ice Fest is certainly on its way to becoming one of the biggest and best ice climbing festivals in the country.

    Our bold co-host and roving gonzo podcaster Chris Kalous braved epic winter conditions to make it to the Upper Peninsula for a weekend of drinking beers and screaming barfies, swinging tools and putting crampon holes in his $500 Gore-tex pants. He made it home, weary and battered, with a cold, thousand-yard stare in his eyes and million dollar smile across his face.

    This is Andrew Bisharat and I’m here as always with Chris Kalous, and you’re listening to The Run Out.

  • Runout #15: Alpinist Kitty Calhoun of Chicks Climbing and Skiing

    Runout #15: Alpinist Kitty Calhoun of Chicks Climbing and Skiing

    Its January 2019, and we are shivering our way through Ice Festival Season with perhaps the most renown of them all, the Ouray Icefest in Ouray, Colorado, just around the bend. Ouray, known by most Outta-Staters as OOOray, is also home to Chicks Climbing and Skiing.  From management through to clients, Chicks Climbing and Skiing is likely the only all women mountaineering school in the world.

    They will be celebrating 20 years of teaching and inspiring women at this year’s Ouray Icefest with a panel and film about the mindset of women facing challenge in the mountains.

    On today’s Runout, we are joined by Chicks partner and pioneer in women’s alpinism, Kitty Calhoun. When Kitty first started scratching up ice in the 70s, she was practically the only American women aspiring to the big peaks. Her career took her to the mountains of Peru, Bolivia, Alaska, and the Himalaya. There, she became the first American women to climb Dhualigiri, and the first woman to climb Makalu – leading an expedition that tackled the extremely technical West Pillar.

    Kitty continued a legacy of guiding and leading small, technically oriented alpine style expeditions to big mountains worldwide. She got involved with Chicks Climbing and Skiing from its inception 20 years ago and finally was inspired to become an owner/partner in the school.

    This is Chris Kalous, and I had the pleasure of hanging with Kitty some years back at the Cody Icefest, and let me tell you, she’s a women of power and grace, and just a lot of fun to be around. Joining me as usual, is Andrew Bisharat, and you are listening to the Runout.